Wine: 1998 Chablis "Côte de Lechet" premier cru

Producer: Domaine Lionel Bussy (Milly-près-Chablis)

Comment: This week's Burgundy is a classically styled Chablis that I chose because it offers outstanding value for the money. The Côte de Lechet offers concentrated, slightly green flint and stone nuances coupled with austere chardonnay aromas followed by crisp, medium weight, well-defined flavors and a mouth wateringly intense finish. I particularly like the acid/fruit balance and this should age and improve nicely for 3 to 5 years or so though I expect it will hold for another 5 if well stored. As with many 98s from Chablis, there is some underlying fat that doesn't reveal itself without a good hour or two of air but there is plenty of buffering acidity. For those who admire Chablis with real Chablis character, rather than made in the mold of a Côte d'Or wannabee, this would be a good choice offering solid quality at an approachable price. 87/2003-7

U.S. Importer: Esquin Imports, Inc., San Anselmo, Calif.

Suggested Price: $22 (you can expect to pay $15 to $22)

Important Note: Burghound.com has no financial relationship of any kind with Domaine Bussy or with Esquin Imports.

Each week we feature a different Burgundy. While there will be a mix of vintages, most wines featured will be those that can normally be found at a variety of fine wine retailers. Each wine will be described and rated with a suggested window of peak drinkability indicated after the numerical score. Prices shown are estimated retail in the U.S., but prices do of course vary widely depending on the retailer.