Wine: 1998 Corton-Charlemagne

Producer: Domaine Bonneau du Martray (Pernand-Vergelesses)

Comment: In the category of fun facts to know and tell, this week we review a wine from the only Domaine, other than the famed Domaine de la Romanée Conti, that sells only grands crus. Bonneau du Martray is also the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne with 9.5 hectares (23.5 acres), or fully 19.5% of the total. The wine itself is definitely a creature of the vintage with its very ripe nose which offers melon, mango and other exotic fruit notes followed by big, dense, very rich, even oily flavors and solid length. There is adequate underlying acidity and a decent dollop of the classic Corton-Charlemagne minerality, this definitely leans in the style of a very successfully executed California chardonnay. Grand cru power is certainly on parade though for my taste, I would prefer a bit more detail and finesse. While charming and clearly a white Burgundy from a gifted site, the subtlety and nuance one normally gets with Corton-Charlemagne is lost in all the ripeness and richness. This could be drunk now though it will be better with two to three years of bottle age and this is best drunk on the young side while the acidity and freshness balance off the weight. In short, delicious rather than profound. 88/2003-8

U.S. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company

Suggested Price: $80 (you can expect to pay $65 to $90)

Important Note: Burghound.com has no financial relationship of any kind with Domaine Bonneau du Martray or with Chateau & Estate Wines.

Each week we feature a different Burgundy. While there will be a mix of vintages, most wines featured will be those that can normally be found at a variety of fine wine retailers. Each wine will be described and rated with a suggested window of peak drinkability indicated after the numerical score. Prices shown are estimated retail in the U.S., but prices do of course vary widely depending on the retailer.