Wine: 1998 Bourgogne Chardonnay

Producer: Domaine J.F. Coche-Dury (Meursault)

Comment: The wines of Domaine Coche-Dury are the stuff of legends, extremely hard to find and often frighteningly expensive. But this is one wine of which there is reasonable availability and the price, while expensive relative to the typical Bourgogne, is at least approachable if not exactly a bargain. Jean-François Coche made somewhat atypical '98s in that they are racy and slightly austere with firmly acidic backbones and excellent definition. This particular wine offers reserved, pure and tight chardonnay aromas suffused with minerality; in fact, the initial impression is slightly reminiscent of a classic Chablis. The flavor profile is also tight and at this stage, edgy and hard though there is good density and just enough fat to buffer the firm acid structure. The finish is pretty if a touch lean and green and this will clearly need additional time to realize it potential. The overall quality level is outstanding for the appellation and this easily outperforms many a villages-level wine in '98. In sum, while this is another clear success, especially in the context of the vintage, the wine delivers only fair value and no more. Though this could be drunk now with pleasure, it will certainly improve with 2 to 5 years of cellar time. 88/2004-6

U.S. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

Suggested Price: $45 (you can expect to pay $40 to $60)

Important Note: Burghound.com has no financial relationship of any kind with Domaine Coche-Dury or with Kermit Lynch Wine Imports.

Each week we feature a different Burgundy. While there will be a mix of vintages, most wines featured will be those that can normally be found at a variety of fine wine retailers. Each wine will be described and rated with a suggested window of peak drinkability indicated after the numerical score. Prices shown are estimated retail in the U.S., but prices do of course vary widely depending on the retailer.