Wine: 1998 Chablis - Les Clos Grand Cru

Producer: Jean-Marc Brocard (Préhy - Chablis)

Comment: Both the reserved nose and the flavors are quite austere but entirely in the model of classic Chablis. Aromas of green apples and wet stones merge seamlessly into medium weight flavors that are precise, even somewhat angular and that put their stony quality front and center on the palate. The finish is a bit short just now and the acidity is quite pronounced but this should resolve itself with 4 to 5 years of bottle age. I admire the style but this is definitely not a wine for those who like the new school of Chablis where the wines drink more like a softer Côte de Beaune than a traditional Chablis, with its emphasis on intense minerality all beautifully framed by prominent acidity. Austere but very pretty. 90/2006-8

U.S. Importer: Martine's Wines, San Raphael, Calif., (415) 485-1800

Suggested Price: $45 (though I have seen this discounted to the around $35)

Important Note: Burghound.com has no financial relationship of any kind with Maison Brocard, Martine's Wines, or with any retailer selling this wine.

Each week we feature a different Burgundy. While there will be a mix of vintages, most wines featured can normally be found at a variety of fine wine retailers. Each wine is described and rated with a suggested window of peak drinkability indicated after the numerical score. Prices shown are estimated retail in the U.S., but prices do of course vary widely depending on the retailer.