Wine: 1998 Volnay "Clos des Chênes" premier cru

Producer: Domaine Michel Lafarge (Volnay)

Comment: There is always a debate among Burgundy lovers as to whether Lafarge's Clos des Chênes or the Clos du Château des Ducs is his best wine. In 1998, it's genuinely a toss up for me as both wines are simply superb, if very different in their respective characters. The Clos des Chênes is decidedly bigger and richer with a lovely mix of red and black fruit and though it displays less elegance, refinement and delineation, it still offers plenty of finesse. There is real size, intensity and richness here with excellent flavor authority and an emerging nugget of complexity on the long, impressively broad finish. There is real density and big, ripe but not hard tannins here and none of the hyper-extraction that some domaines use to mask the abuse of yields. Despite the size and intensity, this remains unmistakably pinot noir and unmistakably Burgundy. Be sure to allow for at least an hour of air if you plan on drinking it anytime soon; for that matter, decanting it wouldn't hurt. Terrific juice that is worth a special search. 93/2008-15

U.S. Importer: Esquin Imports, Inc., San Anselmo, CA. A Becky Wasserman Selection

Suggested Price: $95 (you can expect to pay $75 to $95)

Important Note: Burghound.com has no financial relationship of any kind with Domaine Lafarge or with Esquin Imports.

Each week we feature a different Burgundy. While there will be a mix of vintages, most wines featured will be those that can normally be found at a variety of fine wine retailers. Each wine will be described and rated with a suggested window of peak drinkability indicated after the numerical score. Prices shown are estimated retail in the U.S., but prices do of course vary widely depending on the retailer.